The entry way to the building had an orderly rack for storing umbrellas. The foyer had wooden floor runners and shelves for stowing street shoes and a bin of public slippers. Donning mine, I shuffled into the dark wooden-beamed and floored room lined on the left side with neat displays of classy and artistic souvenirs, like dragon paintings and kimono-clad rabbit prints. The opposite wall of this large room opened onto a lush, green garden. Centered there was a miniature of the Zen rock garden we were to view next. One could see all 15 ebony, slate and red rocks arranged in this scaled down form, sets of 2, 3, 5, rock clusters resting on a sea of white rock shards in perfectly uniform rows. The "challenge" was to try to see all the rocks at one time in the real garden; it is said that only 14 are visible at any given time/location. One is always hidden. I studied the model, memorizing each rock's location. I was ready for the challenge!
I crept into the rock garden viewing area, which was a raised, polished wooden patio. The gentle rain clicked subtly on the white rock shards. Few murmurs and movements were noticeable. Serenity ruled. People moved languidly and stealthily here as so to avoid disturbances. I meditated and breathed trying to "see" all 15 stones at once. I think it would take years of practice to accomplish this mental feat! It was an amazing environment.
At this temple, we also saw the natural effects of island living in a moderate climate, moss of all types, shapes and colors. The landscape garden was the name given to me, but I'm not sure if there is a more official name. All around the temple were tall trees, artfully placed rocks and blankets of velvet-soft moss. I took several photos just of it. The colors of the trees and the moss also affected my impression of serenity, too.
At one point, there was a small pool of water cascading onto a round carved stone with a dipper on it. On the rock at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock were the Kanji symbols that translate roughly to "I learn only to be content" (the Temple's brochure) or "Even if I am poor, I am fully satisfied with intelligence." (my guide's interpretation).
It was drizzly and getting chillier when we left the main building, Kuri, to head to lunch. I thought we were headed to the car, but after a bit of circuitous rambling along various paths, we made it to our lunch spot, the Ryoanji Seven Herb Tofu Restaurant, at the temple. It is specifically a minor temple in the Roanji complex. It has a gorgeous little Japanese garden and a Kyoyoike pond. The little temple restaurant is traditional Japanese from the tatami mats, low tables, pillows on the floor, rice-paper screens and view of the Zen garden. It was cool!
The server brought green tea in small cups first and then brought out the 4 small cups with portions of the 7 herb mix for each of us to use. Then, she came out with a large, ceramic bowl of steaming tofu, cabbage, diacon, carrots, scallions and little pink flowers made from flour. The procedure for eating was this, you take the small silver ladles and scoop out a cube of tofu and veggies into the small cup with herbs, and add a bit of the broth. Then, with a chop stick you eat the veggies and tofu. It was so delicious! The food was hearty and soupy on a day of drizzles, so it warmed me right up! The ambiance of the spot was unsurpassable. I felt very special eating with my three guides at this temple.
During the meal, the friends told me that one of the symbols of the temple is the circle, which represents "affability, and an earnest hope for peace and harmony in the world." I feel that it is a good symbol for me.
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