Exploring Japan’s Ancient Heart: Kyoto, Day 2

Kyoto dawned rainy and sullen, but did not damper my mood. I rested well in my posh little hotel room, Muishan Hotel?, with its gold silken comforter. I awoke and did some yoga stretching to release the tension in my lower back and flex my old muscles and tendons. I also massaged my feet in preparation for another day’s unlimited mileage.

I prepped myself quickly and repacked my one huge suitcase that was only partially full. I left behind the crappy book on werewolves that I toted from the US, which I learned to hate when spending time reading the author’s horrid writing style. Thankfully, I have another book, The Fig Eaters, that I hope will prove more interesting and will keep me entertained on my 13 hour flights home.

I checked my US bank account online and felt reassured that I had enough cash. I was stressing about it, because three different ATMs here would not recognize my card. Praise the goddess, restaurants, shops and the hotel had no problems. I need to resolve this issue as I’m flat busted on cash and many places here simply will not accept a card.

This resulted in my first atypical Kate choice today: I asked to stop at Starbucks for breakfast. I thought that they would for sure accept a card for a small purchase, which they did. So, I had a hot tea with cream and sugar, a blueberry scone and a croissant for breakfast. I wasn’t my preference to eat what I would eat at home, but you can’t purchase food from street vendors without cash. I ate on the way, and ended up spilling most of my tea, to the Rokuon-Ji Temple and Kinkaku, or Golden Pavilion.

The Kinkaku was the guest quarters for the Chinese visitors to the Rokuon-Ji Temple. It is built on an edge of a sizable pond, which reflects the trees and golden walls of the Pavilion in nice weather. They call the pond, Mirror Pond. We walked through the rain protected by umbrellas. The rain dripped off the tree branches and the emerging buds of spring in the garden surrounding the Pavilion. The opaque gray shale pebbles crunched under our sodden leather tread. The fresh rain vapor moisturized my face and stirred my soul. I imperceptibly withdrew socially from my three escorts (the University van driver, Miko, Mr. Fujita present for round two and as affable and attentive as yesterday, and Mr. Mizoguichi, the guide and fried of Mr. Fujita), as rain makes me revert to my introverted nature and walking through parks and museums makes me independent in seeking serenity and peace. My three companions didn’t seem to mind or resent this personal journey of mine; rather, they seemed to appreciate this need for quiet and my mood for meditation. Once in a while, I played the role of dutiful learner so as to honor HUTE’s generosity and allow Mr. Mizoguichi to feel that he was teaching me something and accomplishing in his job. I made sure to smile warmly as often as possible and to pay attention to their banter, if I could. Sometimes, I just tuned out and went on a little meditative voyage in these gorgeous places.

The first glimpse of the 600-year old Kinkaku, or Golden Pavilion, is one of curious surprise. The building, I learned, was built of three different styles: the first floor is comprised of thick, dark wooden beams and stark white panels, the style of Shindenzukuri, the Heian style of noble families’ mansions; the second floor is Bukezukuri, which is the traditional style of the samurai’s houses; and the third floor (rebuilt in 1950 after a crazed 21-year old arsonist, Buddhist monk committed suicide there over his lost love) was built in the temple style. The second and third floor walls are patterned with 3 inch by 3 inch gold foil squares, where the golden coating was applied. Crowning the peak of the roof is a statue of a golden phoenix with spread wings and long wavy tail feathers, which is a suitable symbol for this building. The roof’s corners curve up to a point as though the building will fly. There are open balconies along the carp pond side for strolling. I would have loved to dwell in this building.

Walking farther, there were Buddhist sculptures where visitors made wishes. They tossed coins into a small, square, gray stone container missing most of the time, so the ground around the statues stone with silver and copper.

A bit farther up the small slope was a waterfall that represented a carp. The chilly water splashed white against the almost black stone (i.e., the carp) and cascaded into a surrounding pool. The pool was enveloped in brilliant green, yellow and gray mosses. I loved the sound of the splashing water and the serene feel of the place. Aside from a bit of tourist jostling, I could have spent the whole day here writing and sketching.

Further on the the inlaid stone path, we were came upon a small tea ceremony building equipped with kitchen, tatami mats and calligraphy art that overlooked the whole stunning scene of the Golden Pavilion and Mirror Pond below.

Once past the tea house, there was a Buddhist temple were incense was burning. The temple was a mixture of Buddhism and Shintoism. It had a bell to ring as well as wishes for the gods on wooden plaques and Japanese lanterns, just like the Fushimi-Inari yesterday. It wasn't exactly like the Buddhist temples I'd seen in Thailand, Vietnam or Laos as those didn't have these items. I think I need to venture to India to check out Buddhism there. It's interesting to me that cultures seem to modify Buddhism to their culture.