Wednesday, January 9, 2013
First Few Days, Second Visit... Very Busy
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
Return to Kato, Japan
Hi fellow travelers, I've returned to Japan again this year (Jan 2013) and will try to share some thoughts on my second experience here.
So, culturally, I'd say the very important things are to be very polite and grateful. It isn't hard because everyone I meet is very generous with their time, gifts, and knowledge. So, thanking people a couple of times, is okay. Mostly I'm just myself and the people here really respond kindly to me.
Hospitality is huge. It is very important to the Japanese to anticipate the needs of guests so that the guest is comfortable and doesn't have to ask for anything. It is a sort of pride or shame if a guest doesn't have to or does have to ask for something they need. The anticipation of the need is amazing; they put a lot of thought into what you will need and when you will need it. For example, when you arrive here, they will have thought about your need for 1) rest, 2) food/drink and 3) Japanese currency and mobile phone and planned getting those needs met into your schedule.
There can be ultra-formality and a reserve. It is not to hold back from people, it's more of not wanting to push one's self onto others, a sort of timidity. Once folks know that you are receptive to them, they appreciate the openness and do open up to you.
Bowing is big. One bows one's head to show respect 1) for the degree necessary for the occasion and 2) to the individual in terms of status. Status identification is the hard part. I ask trustworthy colleagues for insider information as to whom is highest ranking, etc. In seating arrangements at meetings and dinners, one can tell the level of status. For example, the highest ranking individual, whether in power at work or age, is given the best seat. The best seats are usually obvious- head of the table, middle of the table so they can discuss important matters (lol) and make deals, closest to the action, like in the tea ceremony next to the tea maker.
Harmony is another cultural influence that one can see everywhere. It is the Buddhist influence, I think that guides them to strive to be in balance within themselves, in relationships and with their environment. Harmony, I think for them, is about balance and symmetry as much as it is smoothness and calm. So, you will see the idea of balance and harmony as guiding principles in everything from the design of buildings and gardens, to friendships, and art.
Friday, March 4, 2011
Potteries in Sasayama city, Hyogo Prefecture
Dear fellow travelers,
I hope you are well. I am closing in on my final days here in Kato City, Japan. So, I'll give you a run down on various things.
Yesterday, Professor Imai and I went to Sasayama, which is a small town in the mountains of the Hyogo Prefecture that has many small, family-owned pottery studios and shops. These places are nestled into the green, brown rocky mountain side and look like very traditional Japanese homes in this area. Unexpectedly, the visitor's eye will land upon pottery being displayed in the windows, on the walls, in the gardens, all around. This was our destination for an afternoon of relaxing.
Professor Imai took me to one of his favorite places that is run by a family of potters: mother, father, son and daughter. All four of the family potters had very unique styles of expression in their works, for example the son's was meticulous details of white lines etched in black, while the daughter's was floral, feminine and curvy, and the father's was more earth-toned and traditional with unexpected twists. Professor Imai said he liked it because the pottery was traditional wood-fired pottery with a contemporary flair. We share the same taste in pottery, so I liked it immensely. 
There were so many things I wanted to buy, couldn't afford and could never get home. Like an elliptically-shaped black bowl about 2.5 feet long with dazzling white simple flower petals on one side. It was $230, a bargain for the shop. Some of the pieces ran into the thousands. 
We also went to the Tamba Tachikui pottery museum (see the info below), where we saw ancient to modern pots, bowls, saki bottles, platters, mugs, steins, etc. There were a wide variety of styles, shapes and colors. I was very impressed with the museum. Afterward, we spent a good deal of time in the large co-op gift shop in which 30 or so local pottery families were selling their goods from little kiosks. I ended up buying a frog, an owl and a tea pot. I gave the gorgeous purple, red, blue teal, and pink tea pot to Professor Imai as a thank you gift. It was a lovely place to visit and I'm very grateful for it. It made me think a lot of Caradori Pottery.
From : "Tamba Tachikui Traditional Ceramic Center
Tachikui Sue no Sato, Kami Tachikui, Konda-cho, Sasayama-city, Hyogo Pref., 669-2135
0795-97-2034
The Tamba Tachikui Traditional Ceramic Center was founded in 1985 and exhibits ancient Tamba-yaki from Kamakura period to contemporary pieces.
Open: 9:00-17:00
Closed:Third Thursday, Aug.13-15 and Dec.29-Jan.3"
Later that evening after we made our way back along the quiet mountain roads, past all the hibernating rice farms, surprising statues like the one of black beans in the pod, traditional Japanese houses with gardens and flared-shaped, tiled roofs, I spent some time in my apartment haphazardly packing and waiting until dinner.
Professor Imai and Bernie from the Phillipines picked me up at around 6:30pm to go to the the Sushi Roll restaurant that I like so well. It is Bernie's favorite, too. We had plates and plates of sushi. I had bonito, tuna, salmon, smelt roe, lighted battered tempura crab (yum) which was still a bit warm, pumpkin tempura, saki, and green tea. 
I ate so much!!! Bernie and Imai had a variety of fish including uni, eel, mackerel, crab-tempura, bonito, smelt roe, crab brains, and some fishes liver, too. It was my last night of inexpensive sushi in Japan and I made the most of it!!! More about Japanese crafts.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Meeting the Big Boss
Tuesday dawned rainy and cold, I had meetings scheduled all day. The first was with Mr. Jimmy Suzuki, an Assc. Prof here at HUTE. He is a legendary figure back at Eau Claire as he studied English as a Second Language (ESL) there some years ago. He is now a teacher training of English teachers at HUTE. He was a very nice man and we hit it off immediately, speaking of mutual friends. We discussed the possibility of exchanging teachers between schools.
Next, Professors Imai and Suzuki escorted me to the Treasury to pick up my stipend, which was very nice. This consisted of several signatures and many bows, and was done in a blink.
From there, Professor Imai returned to his large office for me to relax until the next meeting and so he could work. At 11:30am he took me to the Ostrich restaurant, so called for it's neon ostrich sign out front. I don't know the real name of it. We were joined for lunch by other English teaching faculty: Professors Yoshida, Nakata and one other. We discussed the possibility of an exchange program between schools, among other topics. We dined in a little tatami-matted room with a low table and pillows. I just love that environment, all curled up on the floor in stocking feet and business suits. It just makes it so much more comfortable. We had green tea, of course, and a large pre-ordered meal of miso soup, sashimi, tempura vegetables, rice, pineapple. For dessert, they had coffee and I had a hot black tea. The meal was quickly over, but it was longer than we anticipated, probably due to the great conversation.
Due to the bit longer lunch, we raced quickly back to meet the HUTE President and Executive Director. I was welcomed into a large room with two desks against the far windows, and 8 comfortable, brown leather armchairs facing each other. I was motioned to sit down near the head of the table on the right hand of the University President. I was a bit self conscious in my thrift-shop suit jacket, but I kept telling myself, no one would ever know! ;-) They were most gracious to me, giving me a handsome pen, stationary with gorgeously-printed, famous woodcuts, a bottle of saki, and a lovely report from their visit to Eau Claire. I felt meager with my humble gift of a framed picture of scenes from Eau Claire and a calendar. Man, the University needs to have better gifts! Anyway, the President discussed with me his sincere wish to have more UWEC students visit HUTE. Professor Imai and I shared with him our plan, which he approved of. He asked me about the political situation in Wisconsin, and I gave him my frank opinion. He told us to keep fighting the good fight! I was appreciative that he knew what was happening there and that he supported us.
Professor Imai took me back to my apartment, where I worked for a bit on my email back home, cyber protesting, and this blog. I needed a bit of down time what with all the intense meetings. Professor Imai told me I did very well.
That evening for dinner, we went to a grilled meat place and met with the Executive Director, Mr. Shinya, Mr. Fujita, Mr. Nagai, and another gentleman who did not speak once during the whole meal. What a fun time I had that evening! I felt like the bell of the ball. We discussed many topics from music, bands, university student exchange, food preferences, and drank two bottles of saki! Mr. Shinya and I laughed and laughed. Mr. Fujita and Mr. Nagai did a lot of the grilling of the meat at the table. The meat, mushrooms and other vegetables were brought to the table where they were grilled over little inset grills. The men cooked, I ate, drank and did social chitchat. It was so much fun! I really felt special being surrounded by so many kind, welcoming people and really connecting with them.
Next, Professors Imai and Suzuki escorted me to the Treasury to pick up my stipend, which was very nice. This consisted of several signatures and many bows, and was done in a blink.
From there, Professor Imai returned to his large office for me to relax until the next meeting and so he could work. At 11:30am he took me to the Ostrich restaurant, so called for it's neon ostrich sign out front. I don't know the real name of it. We were joined for lunch by other English teaching faculty: Professors Yoshida, Nakata and one other. We discussed the possibility of an exchange program between schools, among other topics. We dined in a little tatami-matted room with a low table and pillows. I just love that environment, all curled up on the floor in stocking feet and business suits. It just makes it so much more comfortable. We had green tea, of course, and a large pre-ordered meal of miso soup, sashimi, tempura vegetables, rice, pineapple. For dessert, they had coffee and I had a hot black tea. The meal was quickly over, but it was longer than we anticipated, probably due to the great conversation.
Due to the bit longer lunch, we raced quickly back to meet the HUTE President and Executive Director. I was welcomed into a large room with two desks against the far windows, and 8 comfortable, brown leather armchairs facing each other. I was motioned to sit down near the head of the table on the right hand of the University President. I was a bit self conscious in my thrift-shop suit jacket, but I kept telling myself, no one would ever know! ;-) They were most gracious to me, giving me a handsome pen, stationary with gorgeously-printed, famous woodcuts, a bottle of saki, and a lovely report from their visit to Eau Claire. I felt meager with my humble gift of a framed picture of scenes from Eau Claire and a calendar. Man, the University needs to have better gifts! Anyway, the President discussed with me his sincere wish to have more UWEC students visit HUTE. Professor Imai and I shared with him our plan, which he approved of. He asked me about the political situation in Wisconsin, and I gave him my frank opinion. He told us to keep fighting the good fight! I was appreciative that he knew what was happening there and that he supported us.
Professor Imai took me back to my apartment, where I worked for a bit on my email back home, cyber protesting, and this blog. I needed a bit of down time what with all the intense meetings. Professor Imai told me I did very well.
That evening for dinner, we went to a grilled meat place and met with the Executive Director, Mr. Shinya, Mr. Fujita, Mr. Nagai, and another gentleman who did not speak once during the whole meal. What a fun time I had that evening! I felt like the bell of the ball. We discussed many topics from music, bands, university student exchange, food preferences, and drank two bottles of saki! Mr. Shinya and I laughed and laughed. Mr. Fujita and Mr. Nagai did a lot of the grilling of the meat at the table. The meat, mushrooms and other vegetables were brought to the table where they were grilled over little inset grills. The men cooked, I ate, drank and did social chitchat. It was so much fun! I really felt special being surrounded by so many kind, welcoming people and really connecting with them.
Random Stuff
Office-Size Envy
Okay, so my office is cluttered and packed with materials, but it makes complete sense now why! My peer here has a private office twice the size of mine! And he has two computers. Color me a wee bit jealous!
Talking Appliances
There are unexpected noises in my apartment. The first day I was here, I hear colorful birdsong. I even blogged about it. I'm so glad I didn't ask anyone about the wonderful, musical birdsong, because it's my flipping wall clock chime! lol. Yep, on every hour, beautiful, harmoniously melodic birds ring the hour for me!
Another talking appliance is my refrigerator. If you leave the door ajar, which I did one evening without realizing, it elicits a little beep noise, like the backing of a truck. Isn't that cool? At first I was sort of surprised by it, then once I located the source of the beep, I was impressed by this little convenience!
Okay, so my office is cluttered and packed with materials, but it makes complete sense now why! My peer here has a private office twice the size of mine! And he has two computers. Color me a wee bit jealous!
Talking Appliances
There are unexpected noises in my apartment. The first day I was here, I hear colorful birdsong. I even blogged about it. I'm so glad I didn't ask anyone about the wonderful, musical birdsong, because it's my flipping wall clock chime! lol. Yep, on every hour, beautiful, harmoniously melodic birds ring the hour for me!
Another talking appliance is my refrigerator. If you leave the door ajar, which I did one evening without realizing, it elicits a little beep noise, like the backing of a truck. Isn't that cool? At first I was sort of surprised by it, then once I located the source of the beep, I was impressed by this little convenience!
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Kitano Temman-gu Shrine in Kyoto
Have you ever smelled plum blossoms floating on the Spring air? The sweet, alluring scent and the vivid white and dark pink blossoms of 2000 trees spring out at you when you approach the Kitano Temman-gu Shrine. 
The shrine was built in 947 in honor of a great scholar, Sugawara Michizane, so many students come here to pray and write wishes on wooden tablets prior to high stakes admissions tests for high school and college.
This shrine has a particular feel to it; I'm beginning to think that each shrine does. There is a 10 foot wide sidewalk leading up to the temple entrance which is lined on the left by various food vendors and on the right by a lone row of concrete lanterns, a wall and then an orchard of plum trees.
Unlike Fushimi-Inari's fox statues, this shrine has sculptures of cows as the cow is the gods messenger here. This shrine also has hundreds of concrete lanterns that stand about 6-7 feet high and are singularly shaped. This ancient shrine's entrance gate composed from carved, dark, almost black wood with gold embellishments and highlights of white paint. Inside the gate, there are stone paths that run to the left, center and right. On the right, is a statue of a kneeling cow with a bib.
On the far left, there was an open-air lounge area with fantastic centuries-old artwork adorning the ceilings and tables with calligraphy brushes and jet black ink for composing one's wishes the small wooden planks. In the middle on the left were more concrete lanterns interspersed with plum trees, their nearly black, delicate limbs covered in flowering white and vibrant pink blooms.
I chose the left path that took me to some minor shrines on the edges of this complex. I observed racks hung with thousands of wooden prayers.
The rain made mud-soup pools around the racks. Circling clockwise, I headed toward the main temple building, which is considered a national treasure and observed the covered and lantern strewn corridors lining the square open-air temple site. This layout reminded me of the design of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. Locations around the main area were for teachers and pupils to meet and discuss. Occasionally, I'd see a brightly painted carved wooden spirit or demon. Aside from the gorgeous blooms and the incredible architecture, there was one more delight in store for me here. 
As I continued my clockwise progress around the complex, now accompanied by Mr. Fujita, we came across a sign for the Treasury. I had no idea what a Shrine Treasury was all about, so we decided to find out. The entrance fee was so worth it to glimpse the Shrine's treasured objects that included six 2 foot tall wooden carvings of angry demons, 2 sets of Samuri amour and saddles, ancient scrolls, two Samuri swords sharp as Jon Stewart's wit with their ornate silk ribbons scabbards, paintings on scrolls of sea battles and court archery contests, portraits of scholars, and one massive painting of a horse-riding, sword-swinging Samuri. Mr. Fujita and I were in awe. 
The shrine was built in 947 in honor of a great scholar, Sugawara Michizane, so many students come here to pray and write wishes on wooden tablets prior to high stakes admissions tests for high school and college.This shrine has a particular feel to it; I'm beginning to think that each shrine does. There is a 10 foot wide sidewalk leading up to the temple entrance which is lined on the left by various food vendors and on the right by a lone row of concrete lanterns, a wall and then an orchard of plum trees.
Unlike Fushimi-Inari's fox statues, this shrine has sculptures of cows as the cow is the gods messenger here. This shrine also has hundreds of concrete lanterns that stand about 6-7 feet high and are singularly shaped. This ancient shrine's entrance gate composed from carved, dark, almost black wood with gold embellishments and highlights of white paint. Inside the gate, there are stone paths that run to the left, center and right. On the right, is a statue of a kneeling cow with a bib.
On the far left, there was an open-air lounge area with fantastic centuries-old artwork adorning the ceilings and tables with calligraphy brushes and jet black ink for composing one's wishes the small wooden planks. In the middle on the left were more concrete lanterns interspersed with plum trees, their nearly black, delicate limbs covered in flowering white and vibrant pink blooms. I chose the left path that took me to some minor shrines on the edges of this complex. I observed racks hung with thousands of wooden prayers.
The rain made mud-soup pools around the racks. Circling clockwise, I headed toward the main temple building, which is considered a national treasure and observed the covered and lantern strewn corridors lining the square open-air temple site. This layout reminded me of the design of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. Locations around the main area were for teachers and pupils to meet and discuss. Occasionally, I'd see a brightly painted carved wooden spirit or demon. Aside from the gorgeous blooms and the incredible architecture, there was one more delight in store for me here. 
As I continued my clockwise progress around the complex, now accompanied by Mr. Fujita, we came across a sign for the Treasury. I had no idea what a Shrine Treasury was all about, so we decided to find out. The entrance fee was so worth it to glimpse the Shrine's treasured objects that included six 2 foot tall wooden carvings of angry demons, 2 sets of Samuri amour and saddles, ancient scrolls, two Samuri swords sharp as Jon Stewart's wit with their ornate silk ribbons scabbards, paintings on scrolls of sea battles and court archery contests, portraits of scholars, and one massive painting of a horse-riding, sword-swinging Samuri. Mr. Fujita and I were in awe. 
Monday, February 28, 2011
Zen Garden: Kyoto, Day 2
Being. Taking deep breaths. Letting your soul relax. Quieting your spirit. Allowing your mind's eye to see. The open-air Buddhist temple of Ryonan-Ji and its Zen garden and landscape garden urge you subliminally to do these activities. Is it the infectious calm and quiet? Is it something stronger and spiritual? My guess would be both. I know I react very positively to these environments. I need to meditate more.
The entry way to the building had an orderly rack for storing umbrellas. The foyer had wooden floor runners and shelves for stowing street shoes and a bin of public slippers. Donning mine, I shuffled into the dark wooden-beamed and floored room lined on the left side with neat displays of classy and artistic souvenirs, like dragon paintings and kimono-clad rabbit prints. The opposite wall of this large room opened onto a lush, green garden. Centered there was a miniature of the Zen rock garden we were to view next. One could see all 15 ebony, slate and red rocks arranged in this scaled down form, sets of 2, 3, 5, rock clusters resting on a sea of white rock shards in perfectly uniform rows. The "challenge" was to try to see all the rocks at one time in the real garden; it is said that only 14 are visible at any given time/location. One is always hidden. I studied the model, memorizing each rock's location. I was ready for the challenge!
I crept into the rock garden viewing area, which was a raised, polished wooden patio. The gentle rain clicked subtly on the white rock shards. Few murmurs and movements were noticeable. Serenity ruled. People moved languidly and stealthily here as so to avoid disturbances. I meditated and breathed trying to "see" all 15 stones at once. I think it would take years of practice to accomplish this mental feat! It was an amazing environment.
At this temple, we also saw the natural effects of island living in a moderate climate, moss of all types, shapes and colors. The landscape garden was the name given to me, but I'm not sure if there is a more official name. All around the temple were tall trees, artfully placed rocks and blankets of velvet-soft moss. I took several photos just of it. The colors of the trees and the moss also affected my impression of serenity, too.
At one point, there was a small pool of water cascading onto a round carved stone with a dipper on it. On the rock at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock were the Kanji symbols that translate roughly to "I learn only to be content" (the Temple's brochure) or "Even if I am poor, I am fully satisfied with intelligence." (my guide's interpretation).
It was drizzly and getting chillier when we left the main building, Kuri, to head to lunch. I thought we were headed to the car, but after a bit of circuitous rambling along various paths, we made it to our lunch spot, the Ryoanji Seven Herb Tofu Restaurant, at the temple. It is specifically a minor temple in the Roanji complex. It has a gorgeous little Japanese garden and a Kyoyoike pond. The little temple restaurant is traditional Japanese from the tatami mats, low tables, pillows on the floor, rice-paper screens and view of the Zen garden. It was cool!
The server brought green tea in small cups first and then brought out the 4 small cups with portions of the 7 herb mix for each of us to use. Then, she came out with a large, ceramic bowl of steaming tofu, cabbage, diacon, carrots, scallions and little pink flowers made from flour. The procedure for eating was this, you take the small silver ladles and scoop out a cube of tofu and veggies into the small cup with herbs, and add a bit of the broth. Then, with a chop stick you eat the veggies and tofu. It was so delicious! The food was hearty and soupy on a day of drizzles, so it warmed me right up! The ambiance of the spot was unsurpassable. I felt very special eating with my three guides at this temple.
During the meal, the friends told me that one of the symbols of the temple is the circle, which represents "affability, and an earnest hope for peace and harmony in the world." I feel that it is a good symbol for me.
The entry way to the building had an orderly rack for storing umbrellas. The foyer had wooden floor runners and shelves for stowing street shoes and a bin of public slippers. Donning mine, I shuffled into the dark wooden-beamed and floored room lined on the left side with neat displays of classy and artistic souvenirs, like dragon paintings and kimono-clad rabbit prints. The opposite wall of this large room opened onto a lush, green garden. Centered there was a miniature of the Zen rock garden we were to view next. One could see all 15 ebony, slate and red rocks arranged in this scaled down form, sets of 2, 3, 5, rock clusters resting on a sea of white rock shards in perfectly uniform rows. The "challenge" was to try to see all the rocks at one time in the real garden; it is said that only 14 are visible at any given time/location. One is always hidden. I studied the model, memorizing each rock's location. I was ready for the challenge!
I crept into the rock garden viewing area, which was a raised, polished wooden patio. The gentle rain clicked subtly on the white rock shards. Few murmurs and movements were noticeable. Serenity ruled. People moved languidly and stealthily here as so to avoid disturbances. I meditated and breathed trying to "see" all 15 stones at once. I think it would take years of practice to accomplish this mental feat! It was an amazing environment.
At this temple, we also saw the natural effects of island living in a moderate climate, moss of all types, shapes and colors. The landscape garden was the name given to me, but I'm not sure if there is a more official name. All around the temple were tall trees, artfully placed rocks and blankets of velvet-soft moss. I took several photos just of it. The colors of the trees and the moss also affected my impression of serenity, too.
At one point, there was a small pool of water cascading onto a round carved stone with a dipper on it. On the rock at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock were the Kanji symbols that translate roughly to "I learn only to be content" (the Temple's brochure) or "Even if I am poor, I am fully satisfied with intelligence." (my guide's interpretation).
It was drizzly and getting chillier when we left the main building, Kuri, to head to lunch. I thought we were headed to the car, but after a bit of circuitous rambling along various paths, we made it to our lunch spot, the Ryoanji Seven Herb Tofu Restaurant, at the temple. It is specifically a minor temple in the Roanji complex. It has a gorgeous little Japanese garden and a Kyoyoike pond. The little temple restaurant is traditional Japanese from the tatami mats, low tables, pillows on the floor, rice-paper screens and view of the Zen garden. It was cool!
The server brought green tea in small cups first and then brought out the 4 small cups with portions of the 7 herb mix for each of us to use. Then, she came out with a large, ceramic bowl of steaming tofu, cabbage, diacon, carrots, scallions and little pink flowers made from flour. The procedure for eating was this, you take the small silver ladles and scoop out a cube of tofu and veggies into the small cup with herbs, and add a bit of the broth. Then, with a chop stick you eat the veggies and tofu. It was so delicious! The food was hearty and soupy on a day of drizzles, so it warmed me right up! The ambiance of the spot was unsurpassable. I felt very special eating with my three guides at this temple.
During the meal, the friends told me that one of the symbols of the temple is the circle, which represents "affability, and an earnest hope for peace and harmony in the world." I feel that it is a good symbol for me.
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